Showing posts with label Beijing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Beijing. Show all posts

Friday, December 01, 2006

Beijing connections

One of the weird and wonderful things about my amazing life is to bump into people I know in random parts of the world.
Another long-lost-friend from when I studied applied espionage in London has moved to Asia. Pela is employed by the British empire to engage with the Chinese on issues of Science and academy. She's a clear contender for smartest-most-beautiful-girl-the-dundee-expat-has-ever-met. Unfortunately she's taken, but that doesn't mean I can't brag I know her.



This is taken at the German embassy in Beijing.

Thursday, November 30, 2006

Back in Beijing

Ah, back in Beijing. And it's feichang freezing! Between 0-4 celsius. Where do I complain?

I'm living in Chongwenmen again, same place as last time. This time they've given me a really cool unit with a mezzanine bedroom, so it's more of an apartment than a studio. And very interesting: instead of a heater unit, they've got heated floors. The whole apartment is nicely warm.
Also, it's quiet here during nighttime. I've been sleeping with earplugs in Shanghai for the last couple of weeks, not so much because of the traffic but mainly because there's some electricity equipment humming right outside my window. It's sooooooo nice so sleep in a warm, quiet apartment. If you need somewhere to stay in Beijing, check this place out: www.stayinbeijing.com

Ooh ooh ooh! And I've got a balcony overlooking a hutong courtyard. Sweet! This whole area was a massive hutong sprawl just two years ago, but they've bulldozed the whole thing to make way for residential blocks and shopping malls. They saved one cute little courtyard and it's right in front of my apartment.



Every morning there's a group of soliders doing some kind of exercise inside the courtyard, and it's a great way to start my day to bulk up in two jackets on top of two layers of clothes, and then drink my morning coffee watching them run around and being all alert.



It's good to be back

Sunday, August 06, 2006

Why is it called a "courtyard hotel"?

A couple of additional photos of the hutong hotel that served as my office for a couple of day.
Just to rub it in. I dare you to send me pictures of a cooler workplace!



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The most beautiful hutong home

Mother, I’m happy!

I am a man of my word. I promised that if I ever found myself living in a hutong I would call my mother and tell her: “mother, I am happy”. And indeed, today I find myself living in the most beautiful hutong courtyard hotel. After my trip to Hong Kong was interrupted last week I decided to try something new here in Beijing, to take the sting off the limbo I’m in. By chance I found myself checking into Haoyuan Bingguan - “the guest house with the nice garden”.
I’m spending the weekend catching up with work and admin stuff after the Hong Kong typhoons wasted Thursday and Friday. While there are much better ways I could imagine spending a weekend, I must admit I couldn’t work in better surroundings and I am thoroughly enjoying the courtyard experience.
Some people watch football, some people read manga. I try to find cool places to work. I suppose you could call me a work-geek.
Oh, speaking of nothing, I’ve lost my Hong Kong cash card… How did that happen?




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Saturday, August 05, 2006

Summers in the palace

Typhoons in Hong Kong closed the airport for two days and my whole life has been disrupted. I think I’ve heard somewhere that men are particularly sensitive to changes in plans but I’m not sure if that’s true or not. I know I absolutely hate change of plans. I don’t mind the actual process of planning, but once I have a plan it feels like a burden, a constriction of my qi- the loss of possibility. To then have these plans changed and stop the momentum in my soul… this is one of the greatest pains I know. Not to over-dramatize, but you know, this is how I feel, man.
Anyways, the limbo I’m now in gave me the opportunity to tick one more item in my Beijing to-do list. I checked out the Summer Palace, originally built to entertain the ugly and evil empress of yore during the summer. Now it is a massive tourist destination, almost with the feel of a theme park. It took almost an hours walk before we got far enough from the crowds to really take in the experience of the massive grounds, a beautiful lake and a scenery of hills and palaces. Yet another remarkable experience in Beijing, yet another reason why I really don’t want to leave.

Having said that, I think you can see what I mean by Beijing being dirty... Imagine how beautiful the first photo would be if it wasn't covered in smog!




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Thursday, August 03, 2006

Absurd? Bizarre? Surreal? You tell me.

Right, I’m on my most absurd adventure ever…

Bit of background: I decided today I’d go back to Hong Kong. Having had so much foresight as to get a super flexible ticket, I was able to call in the morning and get a flight for 13.05. Nice, I'm really getting used to this kind of flexibility.

However, just as I logged out and started packing my stuff, an email arrived in my inbox. My flight had been changed to 12.55 (for reasons too complex to go into here, something to do with the weather). Unfortunately I had only memorized the time of the flight, not the flight name (CX9091).

So when I arrived at the airport, how was I to know that the reason there was no 13.10 flight to Hong Kong was because it was actually the 12.55 flight I was supposed to get on?

To make a meandering story short, I basically checked into the wrong flight. With the wrong airline. I’m just not intelligent enough to understand how on earth a company will let you check in with another company’s ticket. But they did, and took my original ticket, they did.

So, back to here and now: I’m writing this as I am waiting to board the flight, and by now I’ve realized the mistake. But this is so insane, I’ve decided to actually try to board it. Yes I know, its stupid, of course they are going to take me aside and explain to me that there’s been a mistake. But what if they don’t? I know I’m risking everything here, my health, my career, possibly all my earthly possessions. Worst case scenario- they will take my soul. But it’s worth it I think. What if they let me on? What if they let my fly with them by mistake? Surely that will the most ultimate of all amazing airline-messup stories. EVER! It will be the airline-messup story to end all airline-messup stories.

Chances of success are slim though. It will be very embarrassing if I hold up the whole flight because they have to unload my luggage. I’m getting cold feet.

Ok, update. This is turning into some kind of freaky absurdist novel. The flight has been cancelled. I’m still pretending to be unaware of the mix-up, and I’m now writing out of a coach taking us to a hotel. I hope it’s a nice hotel. It would make a good story, wouldn’t it, if they actually check me into a five star hotel because of all this. I can dream. But even a decent four star one would still do for a good story.

My chances of success are getting slimmer though. They’ve taken my boarding ticket (which by the looks of it they were actually going to let me use if the flight hadn’t been cancelled), and return my original ticket- which of course says Cathay, not Dragonair. They didn’t check my ticket when they put me on the coach, but surely during hotel check-in somebody’s going to ask me whether I’m actually supposed to be here.

The plot thickens.

Update from the hotel: I’ve just been checked into a five star resort, which is the funny happy crazy news. But it’s miles away from the city center, so I’m stuck here. I’m wondering whether I’m still having fun enough to try to see if they’ll give me food as well, or whether I’ll just give up on this and call my real airline and get a new flight.

Bizarre though isn’t it? Not one person has asked me whether I actually belong with the group. I wonder whether I could go to jail for this or if I can plead ignorance?

Update from the middle of the night... Yeah, the fun has really worn off now. I hate hotels. I'm trying to get hold of Cathay and see if I can somehow get out of here, anywhere. Don't necessarily need to go to Hong Kong. Singapore would be nice. Ko samui. Siem Reap. Bangkok. Just not this hotel.

Oh btw, yes they did give us food, a really nice five-star buffet.

Wednesday, July 26, 2006

Sweet courtyards

I've developed an unhealthy interest in the beautiful. Cool just doesn't do it for me anymore. And that's not good. Cool is easy. Cool is cheap. A life spent pursuing coolness is an easy life, full of gratification. Whereas acquiring a taste for beauty (and by extension, a desire for meaning and context) is begging for trouble.
Beauty is difficult to define and measure objectively, it's difficult to spell and even if you manage to find it it can be rather fleeting.

In my recently initiated search for beauty-kicks, I made a journey into the hutongs of Beijing to find the well hidden Mei Fu. The taxi ride took us through a maze of grey (grey in a good way) alleyways, now and then punctuated by a cluster of local restaurants and corner shops.
It occured to me, that if I lived in such an area, i would be very happy. I would call my mother and say: "mother, i am very happy".

This is a seeminly abandoned alleway, but which turned out to be the one with Mei Fu. A hutong is a maze of these alleyways.


It took us about 30 to work our way through the maze. The last bit was a bit weird, as we had ended up in a section that looked extremely residential and deserted. The taxi driver spotted some loitering locals and asked for directions. Turned out we were just around the corner. But instead of driving us there, the driver threw us out of the car, took his fare and drove off, leaving us in a very very dark place. Grey buildings in darkness look more dark than black.

To make a meandering story short, we found the Mei Fu around the corner. Set up inside a 150 year old hutong courtyard, the entrance was really beautiful. The manager walked us through a small courtyard garden and some really nice architecture, before seating us inside a traditional chinese restaurant. i must admit I was slightly dissapointed. The food was excellent, but I had somehow imagined that we would be eating in the garden, rather than in a crummy chinese restuarant. i've never been into old stuff for the sake of age. i want greens, trees, art and fresh air. i also like atmospheric lighting. what is it about the Chinese and keeping the lights at near laser-strength?



Well, it was a great evening (due to good company and the exciting adventure of trying to find the place) and I think my internal concept of beauty has matured a little. It's always a good thing when you've learned a little bit more about what you want, even if you don't get it.

Sunday, July 23, 2006

A dragon diving into the sea

The Simatai section of the Great China Wall is said to resemble a dragon diving into the sea. I think this pic hints at why people say that

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A man (part 2)

This weekend, I decided to take up Chairman Mao’s challenge to my manlyhood and get up on the wall. The great wall of China, that is. The wall is actually broken and there are many sections scattered around Beijing. The section called Badaling is the most popular destination, and one of the best places to pick up a Starbuck’s coffee. However, the section much further away called Simatai is known to be a more rewarding. Snaking over a mountain-range, it’s both steeper and more visually impressive. When I arrived, I was very happy to see that it is true how they describe the sight: “a dragon in the sky descending into a lake”. Indeed.

On the way there, we stopped at a road-side restaurant. Not only was the food excellent, but so was the whole experience of sitting in the middle of a forest, eating fish we’d just seen captured out of a pool and a cucumber I had picked myself. Not to mention chatting with my party of co-weekenders who included such incumbents as Satomi and Nick, as well as friends and colleagues of Nick’s. If we’d decided to just stay there the whole day and never see the wall, I would have been very happy.

I’m glad we did do the trek across the wall. as now i can say that I’m feeling not only happy, but also quite moved by the whole experience. At one point at a particularly high section of the wall, the view was particularly awesome. It gave me a deep experience of awe. The mountains seemed to go on forever, hidden in mist (pollution?) in the very distance, but green and lush. And across this view spans the great wall in a way that defies any prior conception I’ve had of man-made buildings.


And of course, since walking this bit of wall was more similar to climbing a mountain than strolling across a crowdy square, I feel a sense of accomplishment. I'm glad I could now look Mao in the eyes if I ever met him.

(Warning: what follows is a self-indulgent piece of half-baked philosphy and/or flow-0f-consciousness amateur psychology. Here be dragons)

Speaking of pre-conceptions… I’m surprised to learn how empty my head is of pre-conceptions when it comes to nature and life outside of a medium-sized city. As a kid I had the amazing privilege of seeing the grand nature of Iceland with my grand-parents. But it seems I was much more interested in the comics I brought with me on these trips and my strange stories me and my uncle used to tell each other. Sitting in the middle of a forest and watching a newly caught fish splatter around on the ground is an entirely new experience to me. I have no internal language to describe what’s going on.

END OF DRAGON TERRITORY

The way down was way easier than the way up. Although much scarier. We took the cable cars down, flying over rather high altitudes but getting some really cool views of the landscape and a different perspective of the wall.

Thursday, July 20, 2006

What to do during the weekend?

This is a question that has haunted the human race ever since we started tracking time. The most frightening aspect of this question is that even if you manage to solve the riddle one week, it’s back in force the next week. The weekend is a hole in the fabric of time, threating at any time to destroy our self-identity. For the identity of our self is intricately linked to the passage of time, and the links we are able to create between different times.


So... what to do?

Monday, July 17, 2006

Tourism rocks!

I'd forgotten how important it is to do real touristing. It's easy to get lost in the whole "find-apartment-with-internet-find-food-find-somewhere-to-watch-the-world-cup" routine of shoestring jetsetting.
Well, this weekend I checked out much of central Beijing, including Tiananmen square and the forbidden palace, but also the main shopping drag, some cool hutongs, phone booths and even found an absolutely amazing tea shop. Especially strolling across Tiananmen square in the late evening, watching Beijingers and a mass of Chinese tourists play with kites surrounded by lit up monuments to the great People's party... it gave me goodebumps and for a short while convinced me that I live a really good life.
Checking out restaurants and bars at night and the local sights at day gives you a feeling of spiritual completeness. Both your nocturnal and your cultural glands get exercised. And when you reach the end of Sunday, you feel strangley both completely exhausted yet strong and refreshed. And quite ready to dive into a full week of work.

About photos... the absolutely WORST thing about blogger.com is that it's really pants at integrating photos. However, I've just found out about Picasa web albums, which allow me to post pics without struggling with the idiotic blogger interface.
So check out picasaweb.google.com/dundeeexpat/beijing for some cool snaps

The forbidden palace rocks like Metallica

I mean that in a good way.

I’ve been outside the forbidden palace a couple of times before. I don’t know how, but I had got the impression that the place would be quite small. So when I discovered that it’s made up massive-courtyard after massive-courtyard, I realized this was going to be a different experience than standing outside the Big Ben and saying “wow, that’s a big clock”. The courtyards are connected by long corridors and gates with grand names like “the gate of law and order”. Some sections are at a higher altitude than others, and you get dazzling views of Chinese-style rooftops that seem to go on forever. Again I am struck by the authenticity of the whole thing- I am used to this style of rooftops being used as gimmicks or to advertise that “we serve Chinese food here” in China towns around the world. Here, they are the norm.

The most amazing part of this sightseeing trip through the palace was discovering a rather spacious garden in the middle of it, with massive trees providing a green shade from the sun and surrounded by temple like structures and a strange, very large rock sculpture. A moment of bliss ensued after I found a cafĂ© selling beer, as I sat down on a stone structure and enjoyed a quiet moment of reflection. “Here I am having a beer in the emperor’s garden”. It’s good to feel like you have the right to the same privileges as the emperor of China.

I told Nick that this was possibly the most impressive man-made building I’ve been in. He replied that Angkor Wat in Cambodia could possibly compete for that title. “Really?” I asked, although I didn't expect an answer. “Interesting”, I added absent-mindedly as I went through my travel plans in my head, wondering whether they have good internet connections in Siam Reap.

Joining me this day was Satomi and Nick both of whom seem to have caught the tourism bug as well. Also, Nick introduced us to his colleague Mike who turns out to be a top dood. We all ended the day on the terrace of a nearby tea-house which was a destination in itself.


Thursday, July 06, 2006

Making a last stand against the forces of Dundee

I can not believe it... they have found me. They've persecuted me across the globe. They've been relentless- this is my eighth month on the run.

I will make a last desperate attempt to escape them tonight. Seven PM I will turn up at the Beijing train station disguised as a Japanese tourist. I will try to blend in with one of the japanese tour groups that tend to loiter around KFC. If all goes as planned, I will be able to use the group as a cover as I make a dash for the Mongolian border.

I have already invested in a Japanese phrase book, warm clothes and I have undergone the mental preparation that should allow me to survive a cuisine entirely based on mutton (that's mongolian food, not japanese btw). So I go prepared.

Pray for me.

The Dundee Expat

Current status

Death. The Dundee Expat met his demise in Hong Kong, where he was subverted as a concept by the rise of the Wannabe Gentleman.