Wednesday, July 26, 2006

Sweet courtyards

I've developed an unhealthy interest in the beautiful. Cool just doesn't do it for me anymore. And that's not good. Cool is easy. Cool is cheap. A life spent pursuing coolness is an easy life, full of gratification. Whereas acquiring a taste for beauty (and by extension, a desire for meaning and context) is begging for trouble.
Beauty is difficult to define and measure objectively, it's difficult to spell and even if you manage to find it it can be rather fleeting.

In my recently initiated search for beauty-kicks, I made a journey into the hutongs of Beijing to find the well hidden Mei Fu. The taxi ride took us through a maze of grey (grey in a good way) alleyways, now and then punctuated by a cluster of local restaurants and corner shops.
It occured to me, that if I lived in such an area, i would be very happy. I would call my mother and say: "mother, i am very happy".

This is a seeminly abandoned alleway, but which turned out to be the one with Mei Fu. A hutong is a maze of these alleyways.


It took us about 30 to work our way through the maze. The last bit was a bit weird, as we had ended up in a section that looked extremely residential and deserted. The taxi driver spotted some loitering locals and asked for directions. Turned out we were just around the corner. But instead of driving us there, the driver threw us out of the car, took his fare and drove off, leaving us in a very very dark place. Grey buildings in darkness look more dark than black.

To make a meandering story short, we found the Mei Fu around the corner. Set up inside a 150 year old hutong courtyard, the entrance was really beautiful. The manager walked us through a small courtyard garden and some really nice architecture, before seating us inside a traditional chinese restaurant. i must admit I was slightly dissapointed. The food was excellent, but I had somehow imagined that we would be eating in the garden, rather than in a crummy chinese restuarant. i've never been into old stuff for the sake of age. i want greens, trees, art and fresh air. i also like atmospheric lighting. what is it about the Chinese and keeping the lights at near laser-strength?



Well, it was a great evening (due to good company and the exciting adventure of trying to find the place) and I think my internal concept of beauty has matured a little. It's always a good thing when you've learned a little bit more about what you want, even if you don't get it.

Current status

Death. The Dundee Expat met his demise in Hong Kong, where he was subverted as a concept by the rise of the Wannabe Gentleman.